story by JANICE LEWINE
When Marilyn Monroe crooned that diamonds are a girl’s best friend in 1953, she was draped in stones forged by earth and eons. But if she’d seen today’s marvels—lab-grown gems with the same fire and allure created in mere weeks—she might have added a modern verse, captivated by a new kind of best friend.
For centuries, diamonds have symbolized love, rarity and permanence. Today, alongside natural diamonds, lab-grown versions are dazzling jewelry cases worldwide. For buyers, this raises questions: What’s the difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds? How do they compare in value? And how do other gemstones fit into the picture?
To illuminate the sparkling landscape, we turn to two local experts: Marci Bailey, owner of Bailey’s Fine Jewelry in Raleigh and Cary with additional locations in Greenville, Rocky Mount and Charlotte; and Hillary Watson, vice president of sales and marketing at Charles & Colvard, a pioneering fine jewelry company in Morrisville.
Natural diamonds are Earth’s masterpieces, sculpted by the planet’s enduring forces. Above photos courtesy of Bailey’s Fine Jewelry
THE BIRTH OF BRILLIANCE
Natural diamonds are the ultimate expression of nature’s artistry. Formed under intense heat and pressure deep underground, they take billions of years to crystallize. Only a small fraction of all recovered diamonds from places like Africa, Russia, Canada and Australia meets the high standards for clarity, color, size and lack of inclusions needed to be gem-quality—making each one truly rare and unlike any other.
And what exists today is all we’ll ever have. “With natural diamonds, there’s only so much the earth has created over millions of years. No technology can replace that rarity,” Bailey says.
Lab-grown diamonds, by contrast, are created in laboratories that replicate those same geological conditions. High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) methods grow diamonds from a tiny carbon seed—sourced from either a natural or previously lab-grown stone. The result? Diamonds that are chemically, physically and optically identical to mined diamonds.
The idea isn’t new. In 1954, General Electric created the first synthetic, industrial-grade diamond. By the 2010s, technology had advanced enough for lab-grown gems to gain popularity as chic and credible alternatives to natural ones.
Charles & Colvard uses the CVD process, beginning with a carbon seed in a sealed chamber of carbon-rich gas. Hydrogen is added, and the mixture is heated above 1,000°C, creating energized plasma. Carbon atoms settle on the seed layer by layer, forming a flawless diamond lattice over two weeks to several months, depending on size.
“Think of it like building a crystal brick by brick—it’s precise but takes time,” Watson says.
NATURE OR SCIENCE
To the naked eye, natural and synthetic diamonds are indistinguishable. Only a trained gemologist using specialized tools can tell the
difference.
Watson explains, “Lab-grown diamonds do not sparkle any differently from mined diamonds. The difference is where they come from.”
Both natural and lab-created diamonds are evaluated according to the “4Cs”—cut, color, clarity and carat weight—and can be certified by organizations such as the International Gemological Institute (IGI) and American Gem Society (AGS). The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) now grades lab-grown diamonds as either premium or standard. This approach recognizes that, unlike natural ones, lab-grown stones are manufactured rather than rare geological finds, preserving the 4Cs framework for natural diamonds.
Charles & Colvard’s rough diamonds are cut, polished and graded by IGI gemologists. “Just like mined diamonds, lab-grown diamonds fall into multiple levels of quality. However, technology is advancing at such a rapid rate that imperfections in lab-grown diamonds are becoming increasingly less prevalent. This is why, in our opinion, the grading scale and certification process are critical in validating what’s on the market and what the consumer is buying,” Watson says.
ETERNAL LIGHTS
Every diamond reveals a different facet of value.
Natural diamonds draw their worth from rarity and individuality, and their emotional power as tangible pieces of time—especially when passed down by a loved one.
“When purchasing a natural diamond, it’s important to consider grading and certification, value, and its lasting legacy. Natural diamonds are cherished for their ability to be passed down from generation to generation, all while increasing in value,” Bailey says.
Lab-created diamonds, produced in larger quantities, are often more affordable—sometimes up to 50–60% less than natural stones. That affordability—and the ability to buy a larger stone for less money—is appealing to many shoppers, as is the ability to customize
shape, color and carat weight. Because lab-grown diamonds are shaped by technology and mass production, their prices can fluctuate as the market evolves. Yet they remain a modern marvel that lasts indefinitely.
BALANCING ETHICS AND BEAUTY
The ethics of gemstones are complex, tied to questions of environmental impact, labor practices and cultural legacy. Mining can
provide essential income and preserve artisanal traditions but can also cause land degradation, habitat loss and carbon emissions when not responsibly managed.
“With natural diamonds, one main concern is land use. Diamond mining changes the landscape and uses water and fuel. That’s why responsible mining practices and land reclamation are so important, and why we only work with suppliers who meet those standards,” Bailey says.
Reputable jewelers such as Bailey’s Fine Jewelry uphold strict ethical standards, sourcing all diamonds in compliance with the Kimberley Process, which prevents the trade of conflict stones. “That means every natural diamond we bring into our cases is conflict-free and responsibly sourced,” Bailey adds.
Lab-created diamonds avoid excavation but require significant energy to align carbon atoms precisely—raising concerns when that energy comes from fossil fuels. To reduce impact, many producers now use renewable energy, helping lab-grown diamonds achieve carbon-neutral status. Charles & Colvard emphasizes energy-efficient production for both its exclusive Caydia® line (derived from carbon) and Forever One™ moissanite (made of silicon carbide), minimizing waste at every stage.
And it’s not just diamonds—brilliant rubies and sapphires can form in weeks, and emeralds in a few months.
At Charles & Colvard’s Signature Showroom in Morrisville, innovation shines through every lab-created piece.
Above photos courtesy of Charles & Colvard
REDEFINING TRADITION
The diamond market reflects more than changing styles—it mirrors shifting generational priorities.
“Younger buyers are more open to lab-grown diamonds. They love the idea of getting a bigger stone for their budget. Older generations, on the other hand, tend to lean toward natural diamonds because they value rarity, long-term investment and the idea of passing something down that can’t be recreated in a lab,” Bailey says.
She adds that while Bailey’s doesn’t market lab-grown gemstones, it will work with trusted partners to find the perfect engineered stone a client desires and create the jewelry piece of their dreams.
Recently engaged Tyler Lamar embraced contemporary style, designing a bespoke lab-grown emerald with Charles & Colvard
rather than choosing a conventional diamond.
“In my design, I wanted the ring to embody the personality of the fine young lady that is tradition and innovation, which is what I went with when I customized the ring. I added some personal touches and chose an emerald—a blend of tradition and innovation. She could not be happier with how it came out. It shines bright and has beautiful colors.”
Lamar is part of a growing group of buyers choosing diamond alternatives—natural and man-made—for their engagement rings. Bailey suggests, “[Natural] sapphires come in every color of the rainbow. Since they are less popular and less known, they tend to be a little more affordable per carat. Tourmaline is another really good option, though they are not quite as durable as a sapphire.”
In the end, what matters most isn’t whether a gem was born from the earth or crafted by human ingenuity. A gemstone’s brilliance shines in the love it symbolizes.
“Jewelry is truly about life’s milestones,” Bailey says, “and those moments drive our business year after year.”
At Charles & Colvard’s Signature Showroom in Morrisville, innovation shines through every lab-created piece.
Photo courtesy of Charles & Colvard